GENERAL

 

HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION

 

OF

 

DERBYSHIRE.

 

IN the time of the Britons Derbyshire is found included in the number of counties that made up the kingdom of the Coratini. During the government of the Romans, it formed part of Britannia Prima, and when England became divided under the Saxon monarchs into seven kingdoms, called the heptarchy, Derbyshire constituted part of Mercia, and Repton, then called Repandune, appears to have been a residence of the Mercian kings. It is a midland and almost central county, being situated nearly at an equal distance from the German ocean on the E. as from St. George’s channel on the west. It is bounded on the N. and north-west by Yorkshire and Cheshire, on the south and south-east by Leicestershire, on the east by Nottinghamshire, and on the west by Staffordshire. It lies between 52 deg. 40 min. and 53 deg. 29 min. north latitude, and 1 deg. 12 min. and 2 deg. 3 min. west longitude from the meridian of Greenwich. The form of the county is extremely irregular, especially on its western side, and there is a small isolated part of it in Leicestershire. Its greatest length from north north-west to south south-cast is 56 miles, and its breadth from east to west is about 33 miles. It has an area of 1029 square miles, comprising 658,803 acres, which 510,000 are arable, pasture, and meadow lands. At the census in 1851 it contained a population of 313,641 inhabitants, of whom 156,360 were males, 157,281 were females.  The number of occupied dwelling houses were 56,745, at the same time 2,686 were unin­habited, and 458 were building. In 1801 the population was 161,567, and the annual value of the land and buildings, as assessed to the county rate in 1815, was £887,659. The annual value of real property assessed to the property and income tax for the year ending Lady-day 1851, was £1,999,550, and of property assessed to the relief of the poor for the year ending 25th March, 1850, was £1,058,851. The average value of land per acre for the whole county is l8s. 10d., and the ANNUAL VALUE of every parish or township may be seen by referring to the work. The COUNTY, before the passing of the Reform Bill, sent only four members to parliament, but now sends six, viz., four for the county at large, and two for the borough of Derby. The six hundreds of which it is composed form the north and south divisions of the county, each of which sends two members. The Northern division comprises the hundreds of Scarsdale, High Peak, and part of Wirksworth; and the Southern division, the hundreds of Appletree, Morleston and Litchurch, Repton and Gresley, and part of Wirksworth. For the North division, the polling places are at Bakewell, Chesterfield, Chapel-en-le-Frith, Alfreton, and Glossop, the place of election being at Bakewell. Those for the South division are Derby, Ashbourn, Melbourne, Wirksworth, and Belper, the place of election being at Derby. The chief market towns are Alfreton,

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Ashbourn, Blakewell, Belper, Chapel-en-le-Frith, Chesterfield, Derby, Glossop, Riddings, Tideswell, Winster, and Wirksworth. Derbyshire is included in the diocese of Lichfield, and province of Canterbury, in which it forms an archdeaconry, comprising the deaneries of Ashbourn, Castillar, High Peak, Chesterfield, Derby, and Repington, which contain 58 rectories, 52 vicarages, 116 perpetual curacies, 6 donatives, and 1 peculiar. There are also in the county 396 dissenting places of worship, of which 45 belong to the Independents; 34 the Baptists, 289 the (different branches of) Methodists, 10 the Unitarians, 5 the Friends, 2 the Swedenborgians, 1 the Latter Day Saints, 1 the Free Gospellers, and 8 the Roman Catholics. The Barmote courts for the regulation of mineral concerns, and determining all disputes relating to the working of the mines, are held at Monyash, Ashford, Eyam, Stoney Middleton, Crich, and Wirksworth. The assizes are held at Derby, as are the quarter sessions, except the Easter, which are held at Chesterfield. Derbyshire and Not­tinghamshire formed but one shrievalty, until the year 1569, and the assizes for both counties were held at Nottingham till the reign of Henry III. They were then held alternately in each county, till 1569, since which time they have been uniformly held at Derby. Judge Blackstone says, England was first divided into counties, hundreds, and tithings, by Alfred the Great, for the protection of property and the execution of justice. Tithings were so called because ten freeholders with their families formed one; ten of these tithings were supposed to form a hundred. Wapentake, from an ancient ceremony, in which the governor of a hundred met all the aldermen of his district, and holding up his spear they all touched it with theirs, in token of subjection and union to one common interest. An indifferent number of these wapentakes or hundreds form a county or shire, for the civil government of which a shire-reeve or sheriff is elected annually. The king­dom was divided into parishes soon after the introduction of Christianity, by Honorius, Archbishop of Canterbury, in the year 636, and the boundaries of them, as marked in Domesday book, agree very nearly with the present division. The custom which still continues of making the hundreds responsible for the excesses of a lawless mob, is an ap­pendage to the Saxon system of tithing.

Historians all agree that the aborigines of Britain were a tribe of Gauls who emigrated from the continent, probably a thousand years before the Christian era. Previous to the Roman conquest, the ancient Britons inhabiting the southern portion of the island had made some little progress towards civilization, but those on the north were wild and uncultivated, and subsisted chiefly by hunting, and the spontaneous productions of the earth, wearing for their clothing the skins of animals killed in the chase, and dwelling in habitations formed by the interwoven branches of the forest. Their religion was Druidical, but its origin is not known; some assert that the Druids accompanied the Gauls in early ages, and others, that Druidism was first introduced into England by the Phœnicians, who were the first merchants who traded to this island, and for a considerable time monopolized a profitable trade in tin and other useful metals. Their government, according to Diodorus Siculus, the ancient historian, though monarchial, was free, and their religion, which formed one part of their government, was Druidical. Justice was dispensed, not under any written code of laws, but on equitable principles, and on difference of opinion in the assembled congress, appeal was made to the Arch Druid, whose decision was final. Their religious ceremonies were performed on high places, and in deep groves, and consisted in wor­shipping the God of nature, and rendering him praise on the yearly accession of the seasons. The means by which religion was supported was by voluntary tithes and offerings, and in this respect we trace a similarity with all the nations of antiquity. Despite of the corrup­tions and philosophical atheism in which the Druidical religion became involved, candour demands of us that the Druids were in possession of learning as extensive and more useful than some of their Christian posterity, who from the eighth century to the reformation, were almost wholly employed in scholastic divinity, metaphysical or chronological disputes legends, miracles, and martyrologies; and Dr. Kennedy informs us that in St. Patrick’s time, no fewer than 300 volumes of their books were burnt, and no doubt the same was

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practised so long as a volume could be found. By this destruction a wide chasm has been made in the historical details of this country. Julius Cæsar, his “Commentarii de Bello Gallico,” informs us that the Druids inculcated the doctrine of the immortality and transmigration of the soul, and discoursed “with the youth about the heavenly bodies, their motion, the size of the heaven and the earth, the nature of things, and the influence and power of the immortal Gods.” The misletoe was their chief specific in medicine, and nothing was held so sacred as the misletoe of the oak, which being scarce, was gathered with great ceremony on a certain day appointed for their general festival. In the civil government of this ancient people, capital offenders were sentenced to death, and sacrificed in the most solemn manner, on the altars of their temples, while those convicted of minor crimes were excommunicated from all civil and religious liberty. At the time of the Roman invasion, the British Druids exerted their utmost zeal in opposing the usurpation of that foreign power. The invaders, on the other hand, fired with equal resentment, endeavoured to establish their security by the extermination of the Druidic order, and its priests were sacrificed to this barbarous policy; many fled to the Isle of Anglesey, and afterwards perished in the flames, by the orders of Suetonius, and great numbers of them were cut off in an unsuccessful revolt of the Britons, under Queen Boadicea, after which the power and splendour of the Druids rapidly declined.

Julius Cæsar invaded Britain 55 years before the birth of Christ, and after a protracted struggle, succeeded in establishing a Roman government, but being distracted by domestic wars, which ended in the establishment of an absolute monarchy at Rome, the conquerers had little force to spare for the preservation of distant conquests, the Britons were therefore soon left to themselves, and for nearly a century after the invasion of Cæsar, enjoyed unmolested their own civil and religious institutions. In the interval between the first and second invasion of Britain by the Romans, the founder of the Christian religion had accomplished his divine mission, in a province of the Roman empire, but almost without observation at Rome: and AD. 43, Claudius sent over an army to this country, under the command of Plautius, who was afterwards succeeded by Suetonius Paulinius; this general succeeded, after many sanguinary struggles, in completing the conquest, and caused great numbers of the Druids to be burnt in the fires they had prepared for their captive enemies; he also destroyed all their consecrated groves and altars, and abolished their rites and ceremonies. But the dominion of the Romans was not finally established till AD. 80, when they were placed under the command of Julius Agricola. The first care of the conquerors was to introduce civilization and law, and by multiplying the wants of the people, to incline them to habits of industry, and finally to incorporate them with the Roman empire.  Agri­cola endeavoured to secure his conquest by erecting a chain of forts across the isthmus between the Frith of Forth and Clyde, and in the year 84 he extended a chain of Stations from Solway Frith to Tynemouth, which was afterwards connected by an earthern rampart raised by the Emperor Adrian, as an obstruction to the Caledonians, who frequently de­scended and committed the most dreadful ravages in the Roman territories. In AD. 208, this earthern barrier was strengthened by the great wall, 12 feet high and 8 feet thick, built by the Emperor Severus, across the island from Solway Frith to the river Tyne, stretching a distance of 80 miles. From this time York was made the capital of Maxima Cæsariensis, the great Roman province in which Derbyshire was comprised. The Emperor Constantine, son of Constantius was born at York, of a British Princess, in the year 312, and was the first imperial convert to the Christian faith. During the residence of the Romans in this island, comprehending a period of 400 years, many great public works were accomplished, and they left behind many monuments of their skill and industry. The conquered country was divided into six provinces, each of them governed by a præter, and quæstor, the former charged with the general administration of the government, and the latter with the management of the finances.

ROMAN ANTIQUITIES — The great Camo on Holy Hill, near Arnold, is supposed to have been the central station of the Roman forces in this district. The Roman Station,

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Derventio, at Little Chester, near Derby, is on the great Roman road Ilkenild street, which was examined by Mr. Pegge, about seventy years ago, with so much attention, as to leave us but little to add to his observations. It enters Derbyshire at Monks’ bridge, about two miles to the north-east of Burton-upon-Trent, and extends in a direct line over Egginton Heath to Little Over. From this village it ran in a north-east direction to the town of Derby, where it was carried across Nun’s Green, to the station at Little Chester. It is generally allowed there was once a bridge over the Derwent, at this place, in the same line with the street; from this place the road is very evident in dry seasons, in the pastures on the north side of the village. It passes to the east of Breadsall Priory, across Morley moor, and appears very conspicious a little east of Brackley gate, after which it is visible in Horsley Park; it afterwards crosses the road leading from Nottingham, near Horsley Woodhouse, to Wirksworth. After crossing Bootle Brook, it goes by Smithy-houses, and may be seen in Street-lane, from whence it may be traced through the fields to the road which lies between Heage and Ripley, and passes on to the east side of the camp on Pentrich common, and extends towards Okerthorpe, through the Day Carrs, at Shirland Hall, for Higham, from which it keeps the turnpike road to Clay Cross, and thence to Chesterfield, where it is supposed there was a Station; from this place no marks of the road are visible, but it is supposed to have extended on the east side of the Rother to the west of Killamarsh Church, and through the parish of Beighton into Yorkshire. Another Roman road, called Bathom gate, or Bath gate, was clearly traced from Brough to Buxton, both by Mr. Pegge and Mr. Whitakcr: on leaving the station at Brough, it is discoverable bearing to the south west, and enters the lane leading to Smalldale, where the right hand edge stands upon it. It was also visible on Tideswell moor, retaining its original breadth of 18 or 20 feet, sweeping in a long streak of vivid green over the purple surface of the heath, till it reached Fairfield common, from which place it was found to have kept the same line to the hill above Buxton.

The SAXON ANTIQUITIES of this county are numerous and exceedingly interesting. They consist of tumuli, encampments, vestiges of castles, and religious houses, as will be seen in the various histories of Derby, Duffield, Gresley, &c.

Though we meet with few records or monuments to illustrate tho history of Britain previous to the appearance of the Romans; however, Pilkington in his “View of Derby­shire,” published in 1789, says, “That from an attentive survey, we shall find that at the distant period the state of the county is not involved entirely in darkness. One of the most striking monuments of antiquity in Derbyshire, is situated in the parish of Youl­greave, and in the hamlet or township of Middleton, is the famous temple of Arbor Lowe, or Arbe Lowe, as it is generally called by the country-people; it is a circle of large unhewn limestones, surrounded by a deep ditch, outside of which rises a large and high vallum. The area encompassed by the ditch is about fifty yards in diameter, and of a circular form. The stones which compose the circle are rough, unhewn, masses of limestone, apparently thirty in number, but this cannot, be determined with certainty, as several of them are broken, most of them are from six to eight feet in length, and three or four broad in the widest part; their thickness is more variable, and their respective shapes are different and indescribable. They all lie upon the ground, many in an oblique position, but the opinion that has prevailed of the narrowest end of each being pointed towards the centre, in order to represent the rays of the sun, and prove that luminary to have been the object of worship, must have arisen from inaccurate observation, for they almost as frequently point towards the ditch as otherwise. Within the circle are some smaller stones scattered irregularly, and near the centre are three larger ones, by some supposed to have formed a cromlech or altar, but there are no perceptible grounds for such an opinion. The width of the ditch which immediately surrounds the area on which the stones are placed is about six yards; the height of the bank or vallum, on the inside (though much reduced by the unsparing hand of time), is still from six to eight yards; but this varies throughout the whole circumference, which on the top is about two hundred and

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seventy yards. To the enclosed area are two entrances, each of the width of ten or twelve yards, and opening towards the north and south. On the east side of the southern en­trance is a large barrow, standing in the same line of circumference as the vallum, but wholly detached except at the base.” This barrow has been several times unsuccessfully examined, and remained an antiquarian problem, until the summer of the year 1845, when it was again opened by Thomas Bateman, Esq., of Youlgreave, a gentleman well known for his scientific and persevering researches into British antiquities, and from whose valuable work on the “Vestiges of the Antiquities of Derbyshire,” we have in this instance availed ourselves of —

     “On the 23rd of May, 1845, operations were commenced by cutting across the barrow, from the south side towards the centre. A shoulder blade and an antler of the large red deer, were found in this excavation, which also produced an average quantity of rat’s bones. On reaching the highest part of the tumulus, which, owing to the soil and atones removed in the former excavations, is not in the centre, but more to the south, and is elevated about four yards above the natural soil, a large, flat stone was discovered, about five feet in length by three feet in width, lying in a horizontal position, about eighteen inches higher than the natural flour. This stone being cleared and carefully removed, exposed to view a small six-sided cist, constructed by ten limestones, placed on one end, and having a floor of three similar ones neatly jointed. It was quite free from soil, the cover having most effectually protected the contents, which were a quantity of calcined human bones, strewed about the floor of the cist, all which were carefully picked up, and amongst them were found a rude kidney-shaped instrument of flint, a pin, made from the leg-bone of a small deer, and a piece of spherical iron pyrites. At the west end of the cist were two urns of coarse clay, each of which was ornamented in a peculiar and widely dissimilar manner. The larger one had fallen to pieces from the effects of time and damp, but has since been restored, and is a very elegant vase; the smaller one was taken out quite perfect, and is of much ruder design and work­manship. In addition to these urns, one piece of the ornamented upper edge of ano­ther, quite distinct from either of them, was found. The floor of the cist was laid upon the natural soil, and the cist was strewed with rat’s bones, both within and without.”

The following observations on the general character of deposits, serve to shew in a great measure, the dates of the interments in these Lows. If, for example, bones are found, especially burnt bones, unaccompanied by any, even the rudest instruments; we may safely affirm that these belonged to the aborigines, and are of the remotest anti­quity. The discovery of flint and bone pins, of barbarous workmanship, with occasional rude earthern vessels, with the human remains, may be called the second era in the funeral history of the early Britons, whilst the third epoch is clearly defined by the brass dagger or celt of elegant proportions, and probably of Phœnician origin, which are found near the head of the principal interment, and sometimes accompanied by a stone hammer or celt. The iron knife and spear head, with shield of the same metal, are certain proofs of a Saxon barrow; whilst Roman tumuli are remarkable for the beauty of the pottery, and the coins universally found therein, and it is by no means unusual to find the primeval interment of burnt bones beneath a secondary one, when the bronze instrument of the Briton, or iron spear, or knife, or shield, of the Saxon denote a much later era.

The EARLY COMMERCE of the ancient Britons was carried on by barter without the aid of money, but about the commencement of the Christian era, a mint master was invited over into Britain from the continent. A mint was erected at Colchester, and money of gold, silver, and copper, was coined in that city, about forty different speci­mens having reached our time. Mines both of silver and gold were worked in the island during the reigns of Augustus and Trajan. Cambden asserts, a gold mine was discoved in Bedford, a few years before his time. The Romans drew their revenues

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from various sources, commerce, mines, legacies, houses, and heads, all contributed to supply their exactions, and as they had suggested to the natives the mode of making money, they did not fail to supply the exhausted treasury at Rome, from the industry of Britain. A succession of ages had almost identified the Britons with their Roman conquerers, and when the emperors pressed by difficulties at home and weakened by their possessions abroad, began to withdraw their legions from this island, the inhabitants importuned them to remain, to protect them from the incursions of the Picts and Scots; the wall of Severus was no longer a barrier to these semi-barbarians. In AD. 450, two years after the last Roman legion had quitted England, Hengist and Horsea, two brothers, the descendants in the fourth generation from Woden, one of the principal gods of the Saxons, embarked their army to the number of 1600, on board three vessels, and landing in the isle of Thanet, immediately marched to the defence of the Britons, who had invited them over to protect them against their northern invaders. Having expelled the enemy, the fertility and richness of the country presented a temptation too strong to be resisted by the ambition of these newly acquired friends who soon began to aspire to the possession of the island. Roused by this display of treachery, the native inhabitants flew to arms, and for near a century maintained a conquest of dubious success.

Foremost among their defenders was the renowned King Arthur, who was crowned at the early age of fifteen. In his person was united a love of country and a love of military fame. He was soon in arms against the common foe over whom ho gained twelve pitched battles; his chief opponent being Cedric, the great Saxon captain, whose invading forces he had nearly succeeded in expelling, when his death took place after a glorious reign of thirty-four years, which gave new hopes to the Saxons, who renewed their efforts, and at length succeeded in firmly consolidating their power.

Of the Saxon system of goverment it may be observed, that it had in it the germ of freedom, if it did not always exhibit the fruit. In religion they were idolaters, and their idols, altars, and temples, soon overspread the country; they had a god for every day in the week. Thor, the god of thunder, represented Thursday; Woden, the god of battle, repre­sented Wednesday; Friga, the god of love, presided over Friday; Seater, over Saturday, and had influence on the fruits of the earth; Tuyse, the tutelar god of the Dutch, conferred his name on Tuesday: they also worshipped the sun and moon, each conferring a name on one of the days of the week,—Sunnam, on Sunday, and Monan, on Monday. The merit of eradicating this baneful superstition, by the introduction of Christianity, was reserved for a Roman Pontiff, Gregory, surnamed the Great, who in the year 597, sent Augustine, a monk, into the south, and Paulinus to the north of England, by whose preaching the Christian religion made such rapid progress that it soon became the prevailing faith, and Augustine was elevated to the rank of Archbishop of Canterbury, and Paulinus, Arch­bishop of York, who was the first to preach Christianity in Mercia, where he followed the victorious arms of Edwin, king of Northumbria. The Danes being dissatisfied with the Saxons having possession of the largest and richest island in Europe, made various incur­sions, and fitted out a large fleet, and entered the Humber in 867. After frequently penetrating into the interior of the country, they took possession of the kingdom of Mercia, and made Repandune (Repton) their head quarters. These pagan marauders burnt and destroyed villages and monasteries, and spared neither age nor sex, which caused the Anglo Saxon monarchs to confederate for their mutual defence, and the invaders were at length subdued. At this time the sovereignty of Mercia fell into the hands of Alfred the Great. All the kingdoms of the heptarchy became united in one great state in 823, near four hundred years after the arrival of the Saxons in Britain, and the crown was placed upon the head of Egbert.  Union in the government gave the people hopes of settled tranquillity, but these fair expectations were speedily blasted by the re-appearance of the Danes, who for some ages had kept the Anglo Saxons in a state of perpetual alarm. For upwards of forty years, and through five successive reigns, the Danish invaders continued the struggle, and at the death of Etheldred, his brother Alfred, the successor to the throne, was obliged

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to abandon the field, and seek an asylum in the cottage of a swineherd. Emerging after­wards from his retreat, he expelled the invaders, and contributed essentially to lay the foundation of those institutions, on which the glorious superstructure of English liberty was finally erected. Alfred soon perceived that an island without a maritine force must ever be at the mercy of every piratical plunderer; he therefore determined to store his ports with shipping, and vessels larger than those in use in the surrounding nations were built, many of which carried sixty oars. The unremitting attention of this illustrious prince to the navy, contributed to increase the blessings of his reign, and has obtained for him the title of the Father of the British Navy. William of Malmesbury, speaking of the English at this remarkable period, says,-“ They wore clothes that did not reach beyond the middle of the knee, their heads were shorn, and their beards shaven, only that upon the upper lip was always let grow to its full length.”

In 1013, Sweyn, king of Denmark, landed with an army in this country, to revenge a cruel massacre of the Danes, which had taken place a short time before, having brought his fleet up the Trent to Gainsborough, and landed his forces, it created such terror that the whole kingdom was soon brought under his yoke. He, however, did not long enjoy his success, for he died the following year, and was succeeded by his son, Canute, between whom and Edmund the Saxon, several sanguinary engagements took place, and the kingdom was for a short time divided. In 1041, Edward the Confessor was, by the unani­mous voice of the people, raised to the throne: having reigned twenty-five years he died, and with him ended both the Saxon and Danish rule in this kingdom. Harold, the son of Godwin, was the next to take possession of the throne, but he was opposed by his brother Tosti, who entered into confederacy with Harfragor, king of Norway; he having entered the Humber with a considerable force, landed his troops in Yorkshire, where in a deadly conflict they were completely overthrown by Harold, who left his brother and Harfragor amongst the slain. Harold having retired to York to rejoice over his victory, received information that William, Duke of Normandy had landed with a numerous and warlike army, at Pevensey in Sussex. To meet this unexpected foe, Harold immediately marched his forces to Hastings, where, in an unsuccessful battle he lost his life. William the Conqueror had no sooner taken possession of the throne than he set up various claims to his new possessions, but his principal right was that of conquest, and if his sword had not been stronger than his titles, so many English estates would not have been placed at his disposal. William brought in his train a large body of Norman adventurers, and the Roll of Battle Abbey given by Ralph Hollinshead, contains the names of 829 Normans, who all became claimants upon the fair territory of Britain, and the Saxon lords were forced to resign their possessions. The Conqueror, in parcelling out the lands of the kingdom amongst his followers, gave all the lands and tenements upon them in Derbyshire, to seventeen distinct proprietors. King William, the Bishop of Chester, the Abbey of Burton, Hugh the Earl, Roger of Poicton, Henry de Ferriers, William Peverel, Walter de Aincourt, Geoffrey Alselin, Ralph the son of Hubert, Ralph de Burun, Hascuit Musard, Gilbert de Gaud, Nigel de Stafford, Robert the son of William, Roger de Busli, Thanes of the King. The tenants who occupied land under these different proprietors are also sometimes noticed, and in the course of the work some of the most curious and remarkable of the tenures will be given.

After so mighty an agitation as that produced by the conquest, some years were necessary to restore a calm; a violent struggle was made to expel the Normans, and York was the rallying point of the patriot army. To suppress this formidable insurrection, William repaired in person into the north, at the head of a powerful army, swearing by the “splendour of God,” which was his usual oath, that not a soul of his enemies should be left alive. According to William of Malmsbury, confirmed by others, the whole country was laid waste from the Humber to the Tees, and for nine years neither the spade nor the plough was put into the ground, which is the reason why vasta so often occurs in Dooms­day book, in Yorkshire. Knowing the detestation in which he was held, the Norman

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bastard, as historians designate him, entertained a constant jealousy of the English, and he obliged them every night at the hour of eight o’clock, to extinguish their fires and candles, at the toll of a bell, which obtained the name of the “curfew.” Having by these sanguinary atrocities reduced the country to repose, the Conqueror in 1080 caused a survey to be undertaken of all the lands in the kingdom, on the model of the book of Winchester, compiled by order of the Great Alfred. This survey was registered in a national record called Doomsday Book, in which the extent of land in each district, the state it was in, whether meadow, pasture, wood, or arable; the name of the proprietor, the tenure by which it was held, and the value at which it was estimated, were all duly entered. In order to make this document complete, and its authority perpetual, commissioners were appointed to superintend the survey, and the returns were made under the sanction of juries of all orders of freemen in each district. After a labour of six years, the business was accomplished, and this important document, the best memorial of the Conqueror, written in Roman with a mixture of Saxon is still preserved in the Chapter-House at West­minster. For many centuries Doomsday Book remained unprinted, but in the 40th year of the reign of George III., his majesty, by the recommendation of parliament, and with a proper regard to the public interest, directed that it should be printed for the use of the members of both Houses of Parliament and the public libraries of the kingdom, which order has been duly obeyed. The counties of Northumberland, Cumberland, Westmorland and Durham, are not described in Doomsday Book,—probably owing to the desolation in which they were at that time involved. Through all ages this “Book of Judicial Verdict,” will be held in estimation, not only for its antiquity, but also for its intrinsic value. At the time when it was completed, it afforded the king an exact knowledge of his own land and revenue, while the rights of his subjects in all disputed cases were settled by it; and to the present day it serves to show what manor is, and what is not ancient demense. The parish histories in this work will contain much information from this ancient document of all that is important relative to the manors and estates of Derbyshire. It may be necessary to explain the land measures and other obsolete feudal terms used at the time to which it refers. A perch, five yards and a half; an acre, 160 square perches; an oxgang or bovate, as much as an ox can till, or twenty-eight acres; a virgate or yard of land, forty acres; a carucate, carve, or plough land, generally eight oxgangs; an hide, as much as one plough would cultivate in a year; a knight’s fee, five hides or 200 acres of land; berewicks are manors within manors; merchet or maiden’s rent, a fine anciently paid by inferior tenants for liberty to dispose of their daughters in marriage; heriot, a fine paid to the lord at the death of a landholder; tol, a tribute for liberty, to buy and sell; theam, a liberty to a lord of a manor for judging bondmen and villains in his court; infangtheof, a privilege of certain lords of manors to pass judgment of theft committed by their servants within their districts; thelonia, a writ lying for one who has the king’s demense in fee farm, to recover reasonable toll; sockmen, tenants who are held by servile tenure; borders, cottagers; villain, a member belonging to a manor. After the conquest, much of the land in Derby­shire passed to the church and the religious fraternities; but at the Reformation most of it reverted to the crown, and was subsequently granted to such persons as were then in royal favour.

CLIMATE.—The climate is much colder in the northern and western parts, which terminate the principal middle chain of hills from the north, than in the southern, lower, and more sheltered regions. Dr. Aikin, in his “Description of the Country round Man­chester,” observes, that the mountainous parts of this county is distinguished from the rest by the greater quantity of rain which falls in it. At Chatsworth, which is by no means the highest tract, about 33 in. of rain have been found to fall annually at a medium. The High Peak is peculiarly liable to very violent storms, in which the rain descends in torrents, so as frequently to cause great ravages in the lands; it is also subject to very high winds. These causes, together with the elevation of the country, render it cold, so that vegetation is backward and unkindly. Some kinds of grain will not grow at all in the

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Peak, and others seldom ripen till very late in the year. The atmosphere is, however, pure and healthful, and the higher situations are generally free from epidemic diseases; though agues and fevers sometimes have prevailed in the valleys. One disease, however, is endemic in these parts, and even as far south as Derby ; this is the bronchocele, or Derby neck.

Derbyshire and Nottinghamshire had but one high sheriff till the tenth of Elizabeth; and they appear to have been divided into eighteen hundreds; for in Domesday Book we find that if the king’s peace, given with his hand or seal, was broken in Debyscyre or Snottinghamscyre, it was to be amended by the eighteen hundreds, each hundred paying eight pounds; of this amends the king hath two parts and the earl one. In the same document it is also written, “If any man according to law shall be banished for any guilt, none but the king can restore peace to him. A thane having more than six manors, doth not give relief of his land, except to the king only eight pounds. If he have six or less, he giveth relief three marks of silver; wheresoever he remaineth in a borough or out. If a thane having soc and sac forfeit his land between the king and the earl, they have the moiety of his land and money: and his lawful wife, with his legitimate heirs, if there be any, have the other half.” The earl here referred to was the Conqueror’s legitimate son, William Peverel, who was the governor of Nottingham Castle, and lord of the extensive honour of Peverel, which extended largely into both counties.

THE MONASTIC INSTITUTIONS in this county were, including all kinds, fourteen, and at the general dissolution, were calculated to be of the value of £728 15s. 5d. At Derby an abbey and canons, not of long continuance, being afterwards transferred to Derley Abbey; a priory of Benedictine nuns, a priory of Preaching or Dominican friars, and an hospital (if not two) for leprous persons. At Gresley, a small priory of canons; at Calke, a convent of regular canons, of the order of St. Austin; at Repton, a monastry of religious men and women, which afterwards was a priory of Black canons; at Lockhay, or Locko, a preceptory of the order of St. Lazarus; at Dale, Dale Abbey, of the Premonstratentian order; at Yeavely, an hermitage or preceptory; at Beauchief, a monastery of Premonstra­tentians, or White canons; between the villages of Hope and Castleton, an hospital ; at Birchover, an hermitage. The particulars of each, and the grants of the lands of these houses at the dissolution of the monasteries, will be recorded in each parish where they were situated. These institutions were mostly founded during the two centuries imme­diately following the Norman conquest; afterwards the people seem to have lost their taste for such institutions. The total revenue of all the religious houses in England, at their dissolution, has by some been estimated at £140,000; whilst others have thought it not less than £200,000 per annum.

EMINENT MEN. — Mr. Flamstead, one of the most eminent astronomers whom England or any other country ever produced, was born at Derby, in 1646, and received the first part of his education at the free school, in that town, but was interrupted by a bad state of health in his preparation for the university. During his sickness, having met with an astronomical work, he received much entertainment from the perusal of it, and formed a taste for those studies, from the successful prosecution of which he afterwards acquired the most distinguished reputation. His first attempts in astronomy were calculations of the places of the planets, and of an eclipse of the sun by the Caroline tables. By means of the latter of these observations, he became acquainted with Mr. Imanuel Halton, a mathe­matician of some eminence, who resided at Wingfield manor, and supplied him with the best astronomical works then extant. From this time Mr. Flamstead prosecuted his favourite study with great success. In the year 1669, he calculated some remarkable eclipses of the fixed stars with great precision. This display procured him the thanks of the Royal Society, and the correspondence of some of its most learned members. In the year 1674, passing through London on his way to the University, he was informed by Sir Jonas Moore, that a true account of the tides would be highly acceptable to His Majesty; and he embraced the opportunity of recommending himself to the favour of the king by

10                                                                            HISTORY OF DERBYSHIRE.

 

gratifying his wishes. He also constructed two barometers, at the request of Sir Jonas Moore, who showed them as great curiosities to the king and the Duke of York, and accompanied them with Mr Flamstead’s directions, for judging of the weather by these instru­ments. This great patron and friend, Sir Jonas, the following year, brought Mr. Flamstead a warrant to be astronomer to the king, with a salary of £100 a year, payable out of the ordnance. This appointment did not lessen his inclination to go to the church, and a few months afterwards he was ordained by the Bishop of Ely. He resided at Greenwich in the year 1675, whilst the Royal Observatory was built, and began his observations in the character of astronomer to His Majesty. In the year 1684 he was presented to the living of Burstow, in Surrey; but his attention was still principally directed to that science which had been the means of raising him to the honourable situation in which he was then placed. After having made many important discoveries and improvements in astronomy, as may be seen from perusing the Philosophical Transactions, published at this time, he died on the last day of December, 1719. About six years after his decease, his great work, “Historia Cœlestis Britannica,” was published and dedicated to the king. It had been prepared and part printed before his death, and will be a lasting and noble monument to his memory. He composed the “British Catalogue of Fixed Stars, containing about three thousand, which is twice the number of those contained in the catalogue of Hevelius. To each of these stars he has annexed its longitude, latitude, right ascension, and distance from the pole-star; together with the variation of right ascension, and declination, while the longitude increases a degree. The great accuracy and extent of Mr. Flamstead’s observa­tions are deserving of admiration, nor has any age or country produced a more eminent astronomer, if we except the late Dr. Herschel, whose discoveries have raised the astonish­ment of all Europe.

James Brindley, the celebrated engineer, was entirely self-taught. He was born at Tunstead, near Wormhill, in 1716, and from the time he was able to do anything, was employed in the ordinary descriptions of country labour. From the extreme poverty of his father, this great genius received little or no education, and to the end of his life he was barely able to read, and his knowledge of the art of writing hardly extended farther than the accomplishment of signing his name. At the age of seventeen, he bound himself apprentice to Mr. Bennett, millwright, of Macclesfield. Being frequently left to himself for whole weeks together, to execute works concerning which his master had given him no previous instructions, Mr. Bennett was frequently astonished at the improvements intro­duced into the wheelwright business. After remaining with his master some years, he set up in business for himself; his connections became gradually more and more extended, and at length he began to undertake engineering in all its branches. In 1755, it was determined to erect a new silk mill, at Congleton, and another person being appointed to preside over the execution of the work, and arrange the more intricate combinations, and Brindley was engaged to fabricate the larger wheels, and coarser parts of the apparatus. It soon became manifest, however, that the superintendent was unfit for office, Brindley being obliged to remedy several blunders into which he had fallen, at length the entire work was confided to him, which was completed in a very superior manner. His ever active genius was constantly displaying itself by the invention of the most beautiful simplifications, one of these was a method for cutting all his tooth and pinion wheels by machinery, which till then had been done by hand. But he had not yet found an adequate field for the display of his vast ideas and almost inexhaustible powers of execution. Happily, however, this was at last afforded by a series of undertakings which were destined, within no long period, to change the whole aspect of the internal commerce of the land. The Duke of Bridgewatcr having an estate extremely rich in coal mines, which had hitherto been unpro­ductive, owing to the want of sufficiently economical means of transport; the object of supplying this defect had for some time engaged the attention of the young Duke, as it had indeed done that of his father, who, in 1732, obtained an act to enable him to cut a canal to Manchester, but had been deterred by the immense outlay, and the formidable natural

HISTORY OF DERBYSHIRE.                                                 11

 

difficulties. When the idea was now revived, Brindley was applied to, to survey the ground. Confident of his own powers, he expressed his conviction that the ground presented no difficulties which might not be surmounted. On receiving this assurance, the Duke at once commenced the undertaking. The canal was of uniform level throughout, and consequently had to be carried across the Irwell in order to bring it to Manchester. Thinking it due to his noble employer to give him the most satisfying evidence of its practicability, he requested that another engineer might be called in. This person Brindley accompanied to the place where he proposed to rear his aqueduct, and explained to him how he intended to carry on his works; but the man only shook his head and remarked that “he had often heard of castles being built in the air, but never before was shown where any of them were to be erected.” The Duke, nevertheless, retained his confidence in his own engineer, and the work was begun in September, 1760, and finished in July following. This was the first of a succession of works of the same description, in which the great engineer displayed the originality and fertility of his genius, and from this may be dated the commencement of that extended canal navigation which has formed so important a part of our means of internal communication. The vigour of his conception in regard to machinery was so great that however complicated the machine, having once fixed its different parts in his mind, he would construct it without any difficulty. When much perplexed with any problem he had to solve, his practice was to take to bed, where he would sometimes remain for two or three days thus fixed to his pillow. The case affords us a striking example of what the force of natural talent will sometimes, do, where not only all education is wanting, but all access to books. Brindley’s multiplied labours and intense application rapidly wasted his strength and shortened his life. He died at Turnhurst, in Staffordshire, in 1772, in the 56th year of his age.

The birth-place of two eminent literary characters, who are known to have been natives of Derbyshire, are not known; Dr. William Outram, the learned divine of the 17th century, who wrote upon sacrifices, and Samuel Richardson, author of Sir Charles Gran­dison, and other novels, which acquired so much celebrity in the reign of George II.

Amongst the distinguished characters of the 12th and 13th centuries, who flourished in this part, was ROBIN HOOD, the famous archer and freebooter, of Sherwood Forest, Nottinghamshire, who was born at Chellaston Manor House, in this county, but whose excursions often extended into the High Peak, where several places bear his name, partic­ularly a high ridge of rocks about two miles from Hathersage, a short distance from the Sheffield road; the recess, two yards deep and one wide, formed in the rock, is called Robin Hood’s chair, and according to tradition Little John, Robin Hood’s companion, lies buried in Hathersage church yard.

LONGEVITY.—Amongst the numerous instances of longevity, in Derbyshire, we will notice the following: in the reign of Edward II., Sir Ralph Vernon, styled the long liver of Sudbury, aged 150 years; 1640, William Cooke, of Barlborough, aged 100; 1657, Adam Woolley, of Allen Hill, near Matlock, aged 100; 1669, Grace Woolley, wife of the afore­said, aged 110; 1718, November 19th, in Taddington churchyard, William Heward, aged 118; 1789, Cornelius Crich, of Ashover, aged 101 ; 1792, Mary Bate, of Beighton, aged 105; 1795. Mary Gratton, of Taddington, aged 105; 1820, Sarah Hollins, of Sommer­cotes, aged 102; l82l Alice Buckley, of Taddington, aged 106; 1827, Thomas Withers, of Heath, near Chesterfield, aged 102; 1827, December 4th, Mrs. Turner, of Morewood Moor, aged 103. The Derbyshire Chronicle, of June 13th, 1845, notices fifteen persons living at Blackwell, whose united ages amounted to 1249 years, averaging 83 years each and in the village of Eyarn, three persons whose united ages amount to 264 years. At the census of 1831, the county of Derby contained 189 persons who were 90 years old, and 28 persons who were 100 years old and upwards. There is now, 1857, living at Morewood Moor, South Wingfield, a woman, in the possession of all her faculties, named Rhoda Flint, in her 100th year. There is also a man residing at the same place who was at the Battle of Trafalgar, October 21st, 1805, and served on board the “Victory”—the vessel on which Lord Nelson was killed.

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     SURFACE, MONNTAINS, DALES, CAVES, &e.—There are few counties in England, the general surface of which exhibits so irregular an appearance as that of Derby. Indeed the southern and northern parts of it are a striking contrast to each other. The former is not remarkable for hills and dales; whereas the latter is distinguished in an eminent degree by a long and continued succession of hills, romantic dales, and beautiful valleys. In this part of the kingdom, the country begins gently to rise into hills, which in their progress to the north, swell gradually into mountains. These extend in one great chain, usually termed the backbone of England, to the southern extremity of Scotland. They first divide Yorkshire and Lancashire then, entering Westmoreland, they spread over the whole face of that county, and a part of Cumberland and Northumberland; after this they contract again in a ridge or chain, and form the limits between Cumberland and Northumberland. Continuing their direction northward, they enter Scotland. These mountains in their course are distinguished by many different names, and vary considerably from each other in their respective elevations and circumference. Ingleborough, in Yorkshire, has been estimated at 20 miles in circumference at its base, and 600 yards in height above the neighbouring valley, but 787 above the level of the sea. Whernside and Pennigant, the former 2,384 feet, and the latter 2,270 feet above the level of the sea. These are the most lofty heights at the north-western extremity of the West Riding of Yorkshire. Scaw Fell, Helvellyn, and Skiddaw, in Cumberland, rear their heads 3,000 feet high. Snowden, in Wales, is 3,600, and Ben Nevis, in Scotland, 4,000 feet above the level of the ocean. In respect to that part of Derbyshire where these high lands begin, though the mountains are not equal in height and extent to those mentioned, yet they approach nearer to them than may at first sight be imagined. The ground in the southern extremity of the Peak rising gradually into hills, and these lying one behind another in a continued series, a common observer can scarcely form an accurate idea of their elevation above the surrounding country. However, of this he becomes fully sensible, when he begins to descend, in the neighbouring western counties. In some particular situations, the prospects into Cheshire and Lancashire are remarkably distinct and extensive. The two highest mountains in the north-west part of Derbyshire are Axe Edge and Kinderscout. The former, about three miles south-west from Buxton, is about 2,100 feet higher than the town of Derby, 1,000 feet above the valley in which Buxton Old Hall stands, and 1751 feet above the level of the sea. Holme Moss, the most conspicuous point of Kinderscout, is 1859 feet high. These separate the basins of the Humber and the Mersey. Main Tor, or the Mother or Shivering mountain, near Castleton, and other ridges, branch off in various directions, across the High Peak, and the Eastern Moor, until they are lost in the fruitful plains that embank the Trent. From near Axe Edge, a tract of high land runs south-east, separating the basins of the Derwent and the Dove. Another east of the Derwent, and running south-east, separates its basin from that of the Rother and the Sheaf. The Low Peak, of Wirksworth Hundred, though hilly, is not so elevated. Of the dales or valleys, Dove Dale is undoubtedly the most celebrated. It extends nearly north-west, from Thorpe, between Derbyshire and Staffordshire, about five miles along the course of the Dove. There are high and elevated rocks in this picturesque dale, called Dovedale Church, Thorpe Cloud, Lover’s Leap, &c. The valley in the High Peak, perhaps the most interesting, is that in which the town of Castleton stands. It is at least 800 feet deep, and in many parts nearly two miles wide; extending a distance of five or six miles. The view from the east, as you stand on the Sheffield road, a little above Hathersage, is exceedingly interesting. Sur­rounded by the bleak and barren moors, scattered over with gigantic rocks, thrown by some terrible commotion in the wildest confusion, the valley suddenly opens to view in all its loveliness and beauty. The steep sides of the vale are seen dotted over by a series of well-cultivated, enclosures; and the village of Hope, with its heaven-pointed spire, standing in the distance; while the Derwent is seen winding its silent course, here and there darting its silvery rays through the thickly interwoven foliage, and giving to the whole a charm of the most exquisite beauty. Another pleasing and romantic view is seen as you enter the valley from the hills above Castleton. Directing your eye on the north

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side of the valley, you see the country boldly swelling into hills, and at length terminating in several high points, at a considerable distance. At the bottom is seen the town of Castleton, and to the south of it, the ruins of an ancient castle, standing on a bold and abrupt eminence. Descending from this elevated position, fresh objects no less striking present themselves. Mam Tor raises his lofty head, and seems with an awful majesty to overlook this scene of beauty and grandeur. The valley does not extend westward beyond the town of Castleton, but here forms a most noble and magnificent amphitheatre; its back rising in many parts 1000 feet, and the diameter of its front measuring nearly two miles. If the valley be pursued down the vale of the Derwent, it is of great length, extending to the distance of forty miles, even below the town of Derby. In the course of the valley the views are extremely diversified, and the most beautiful and romantic scenery continually presents itself in the most delightful succession.

The course of the Derwent from Hathersage, by Chatsworth, Darley, Matlock, and Duffield, as far as the town of Derby, will be fully illustrated in the course of the present work; as well as Bonsal Dale, Matlock Dale, Monsal Dale, Middleton Dale, Cave Dale, and Lathkill Dale, &c.

The MOUNTAIN LIMESTONE ROCK, on the north-west, is noted for the striking appearance it presents, and the singular CAVERNS which often engulf the streams, tra­versing them in subterraneous courses several miles in length, constitute the most pecu­liar features of Derbyshire. These caverns, the more important of which are at Castleton, Matlock, and Buxton, are entered by natural arches or fissures at different elevations of the sides of the hills in which they are situated, and lead to alternate passages and chambers, being in one or two instances of palatial size, and of noble height and proportions; in some cases roofed with a flat surface of rock, in others with arches of different forms and sizes. In the great Peak Cavern, at Castleton, these arches, from their height, span, proportions, and harmony, as to character and extent with the chambers, their canopy fill the mind with a sense of grandeur and beauty, scarcely inferior to that produced by the interiors of the large cathedrals. In some instances, the constant dripping of water from the roofs of these caverns, charged with calcareous matter,—in others, the constant oozing and welling of such water over large faces of the rocky sides of the caverns, have, in process of time formed stalactites of great size and curious variety, or produced surfaces of crystalline character. In a cavern in Chelmorton Dale, a miner found a ring, though he could discover no en­trance except the one he had made. Similar instances are noticed by other miners of human skeletons having been found at various depths of the earth, particularly in the neighbourhood of Monyash and Sheldon. There are several openings of the ground on the north-west side of Peak Forest, called “swallows,” by the country people; they derive this name from the total disappearance of small streams of water which fall into them.

SOIL AND PRODUCE.—The soil consists chiefly of clay, loam, sand, and peat, very irregularly intermixed: the southern part, which is the most fertile, consists principally of a red loam on various under-soils. The sub-strata of which, comprised within a line drawn east and west from Sandiacre to Ashbourne, consists of gravel, intermixed with large portions of red marl of very irregular forms, in several parts of which are beds of gypsum of considerable extent. The sub-strata of the other parts of Derbyshire, are limestone of various kinds, with toadstone, gritstone, with shale, and coal, with indurated clay, all of which appear in the surface in certain parts, owing to their dipping in various directions. The soil on the banks of the rivers is partly alluvial. The southern and eastern parts are employed both for pasture and tillage. Most kinds of grain are there cultivated, and pro­duce a fair return. Dairy farms are numerous in the southern and northern parts; and the annual produce is said to he about 10,000 tons of cheese, which is sent to all parts of the kingdom. In 1846, the quantity of cheese made was about 8,000 tons, and forty years ago it did not exceed 2,000 tons. Barley is cultivated to some extent in the southern division of the county, and more particularly so in the Repton and Gresley Hundred,

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where it finds a ready market at Burton-upon-Trent, a town long celebrated for the ex­cellency of its ale. The quantity of barley converted into malt annually in the town of Derby, is about 14,000 quarters; in the whole county, about 40,000 qrs., and in the town of Burton alone, 88,000. In the northern parts, the land is mostly used as pasture for sheep and cattle, and though the climate is raw, yet much of the land is excellent for feeding, the cattle becoming fat in a short time. The sheep on the High Peak are smaller than those on the Leicester border. They weigh only from 14 to l7lbs. per quarter; those on the gritstone lands being about 3lbs. lighter than others of the same breed fattened on the limestone soil. The fleeces of the former are much lighter and thinner than the others. Merino sheep were introduced in the beginning of this century; and George III. honoured the patriotic endeavours of Mr. W. B. Thomas, of Chesterfield, the introducer, by pre­senting him with two Merino ewes. The horses in the northern are of a different breed from those of the southern parts; the latter being strong and heavy, while the former are light and active, and are much employed in the Peak for carrying limestone and lead ore. Oats are grown on the high lands in the northern parts, and the natural grass is mostly very rich, which, though occasionally ploughed, and sown with oats, two or three years in succession, soon recovers its rich herbage, and is much improved by the moss to which it is subject being destroyed. Great quantities of camomile, besides valerian and elecampane root, were formerly raised in the county, which though it has never ranked decidedly high for its agriculture, it has been considered to be on an equality with the most favoured dis­trict, more especially in respect to the dairy produce—cheese, which is sought after in other counties.

AGRICULURAL IMPROVEMENTS.—During last century the improvements by enclosure, drainage, and superior management, have been wonderful; but when, with Mr. J. L. Mechi, of Triptree Hall, Essex, we consider that we have a superfluous capital, with a super abundant unemployed population, threatening in its continuance ultimate destruction to the nation, and that to ship off our labourers and our money is nothing less than suicide ;—he says, the denser our population, the greater our power and our trade, provided we keep our capital at home and at work amongst ourselves. To accomplish which he points to his own operations at Triptree Hall, and says,—lf every capitalist expends forty-six pounds sterling money in improving each acre of poor and indifferent land, the sum total would be many hundred millions. The magical effects of this expenditure on our trade, commerce, and manufactures, scarcely need pointing out, Mr. Mechi’s letters and im­provements are worthy of the notice of the nobility, gentry, yeomen, and capitalists, and if found practicable, it is hoped they will endeavour to follow the example, to restore the prosperity and stability of the British Empire. England contains 32,590,429 acres of land, of the average value of 19s. 2d. per acre. It is asserted by eminent writers on the principles of population, that England alone could maintain 60,000,000 souls, and some say more.

FARMS—In the southern division of the county, the farms are nearly equally divided between pasture and tillage; while the northern parts, from the poverty of soil, and the rawness of the climate, are mainly used as pasture for sheep and cattle. The farms, though not extensive, are generally larger in the southern portions of the county than in the north; and after all that has been said in favour of large farms, it it pleasant to see a whole county in a high state of cultivation, inhabited by respectable yeomanry, although few farms exceed £300 per annum. There are many small farms, particularly in the north, the rental of which does not exceed £20 a year; yet the occupants maintain themselves in honest respectability; which would not be the case, if ten or twenty of these little spots were thrown together.

FARM-HOUSES AND COTTAGES.—The farm-houses have been considerably improved within the last thirty years, and in most instances particular attention has been paid to the convenience of the outbuildings and farm-yards. In the south, they are principally built of brick, and covered with tiles; while in the north, they are almost exclusively built of

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stone, and covered with slates: most of the old houses, which were covered with thatch, have given way to more modern erections. The cottages have generally small plots of ground attached to them, and agritultural labourers are better off than in most other counties, from the facility of obtaining employment in mining, or the various branches of manufactures carried on in most parts of the county.

RENTS.—The rents, as in most other counties, were considerably advanced during the late war, about forty-five years ago, owing to the extraordinary rise which had previously taken place in the price of provisions and other agricultural produce. However these have been greatly reduced since that time; and on the repeal of the Corn Laws, still further reductions were made, to meet the temporary depression in agricultural produce, but which during the last two years has more than recovered its original position.

TENURES are in all the variety of freehold, copyhold, and leasehold, and there is a con­siderable portion of church lands. The freeholders are more numerous than extensive, and the principal occupants of the soil are mostly tenants at will; a system which prevents those extensive agricultural improvements, which would undoubtedly take place, if leases were more generally granted. The tithes are in most instances commuted, and in others they are paid by a moderate composition.

STRATA AND GEOLOGY.—The geology of Derbyshire is in the highest degree interest­ing and instructive. The general disposition of the superior strata may be stated as follows, viz. :—lst. Argillaceous Grit, and its accompanying beds of clay, coal, ironstone, &c., varying in thickness according as the surface is more or less uneven, and containing a great variety of impressions, particularly the bamboo of India, the euphorbia of the East Indies, the American ferns, corn, grass, and many other species of the vegetable kingdom not known now to exist. 2nd. Coarse Silicious Grit, composed of granulated quartz pebbles, of various sizes. This stratum is about 120 yards in thickness, but not productive of minerals; frequently it contains crystalized flour and barytes. 3rd. Shale or Schistus of a dark brown or blackish colour, bituminous, and appearing like indurated clay; its thickness varies from 120 to 150 yards. In its sparry veins are frequently cavities incrusted with a fine variety of crystalizations of calcarcous spar; impressions of marine substances are sometimes discovered in it. 4th. Limestone regularly stratified, and varying in thick­ness, and seeming to be wholly composed of marine exuviœ, in which is found a great variety of shells, entrochi, corallois, madrepora, and many other species of crustaeeous animals. In it are found the principal veins or fissures which contain galena, sulpheret or native oxide of zinc, a variety of ochres, fluors, barytes, calcareous crystalizations, pyrites, &c. This limestone forms a variety of beautiful marbles, some black, others of a brown red, much used for chimneypieces and different ornaments; some mottled grey, of a light stone colour. On the surface of this stratum rottenstone is sometimes found.  5th. Toadstone, a substance of a dark brown colour, with a greenish tinge, and very full of holes; sometimes filled with calcareous spar, and sometimes with green globules; not laminated, but consisting of one entire mass, and breaking irregularly in all directions. 6th. Limestone, similar to that already described, below which no miners in Derbyshire have yet penetrated. Whatever stratum in the preceding generally occupies the surface in any part of the county, the subsequent beds invariably follow in the order already enumerated. The new red sandstone extends into Derbyshire from the other midland counties, and occupies the southern districts as far north as Ashbourn, Duffield, and Sandiacre. ROCKS are divided into primary, secondary, and ternary. Primary consists of granite, gneis, micaceous-schistus, hornblende-schistus, argillaceous-schistus, kiezel-schistus, chlorite-schistus, sienite, porphyry, quartz, primitive limestone, serpentine and topaz rock; which produce platina, gold, silver, mercury, tin, bismuth, antimony, nickel, cobalt, arsenic, molybdena, scheelium, uranium, &c., with the precious stones, accompanied with several ores of the metals found in the secondary.  The Secondary consists of limestones, grits, sandstones, coals, ironstones, aluminous-schistus, basalt, basaltic amygdaloid, &c. The Ironstone and Coal Strata found laminated in the concavities on the surface of the grit

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stratum, may by some be accounted ternary; if so, the lavas compose a fourth formation; hence the basis of a quaternary division. The following delineation of the strata is from Mr. White Watson’s work —“ Grit Stone, a stratum four yards thick; the surface of ground where its bassets is covered with the fragments of the incumbent beds, whose abrupt termination makes it probable to conclude that these fragments have been shook off by some convulsive violence. Grit, ten or twelves yards thick, the ending of this rock, occupies a considerable portion of ground, and makes some of the best land in the valley; in this stratum are numerous organic remains, having the appearance of large striated reeds, phytolithus, sulci culmis, and striati culmis. After which a thin bed of grit, at the termination of which the Dawlee winds through the valley.”

Ferruginous Grit is of a white colour, fine grained texture, and slaty structure, easily decomposed by the air into clay. The surface undulated, in the concavities of which are formed beds of coal and ironstone. The convexities form conical hills, as at Duckmanton, Calow, Chesterfield, &e: This stone is hardened by torrification in kilns, which makes it a better material for roads.

Whetetone Grit, of a light hair brown colour, fine grained texture and concboidal fracture, forming a stratum three yards thick, much esteemed for whetstones, tombs, paving, &c.

     Grit, commonly called Cankstone, from its hardness, is much noted for roads; a bed of about ten inches thick; incumbent thereon is a bed of fire clay, used in the potteries, &c.

     Organic Grit, provincially crowstone, gannister, galyard, of a very fine grained com­pact texture, abounding with impressions of a peculiar vegetable phytolithus plantites, &c. It forms a stratum of from six inches to upwards of three feet thick, and is much used for roads. Beneath this stratum is a thin bed of coal.

     Argillaceous, or Shale Grit, of a straw yellow colour, forming an undulating surface, subject to faults from its commencement at Chatsworth, to its basseting at Bakewell Edge. The upper beds are used as slates for covering roofs, the lower beds for building; but it is necessary to place the stones in the same position in which they lay in the quarry, or they will separate and soon perish. It contains petrified plants. Bakewell church is built of this stone, from Bakewell Edge; and the fronts of Chatsworth, and the principal part of the Crescent at Buxton; though the same stone bassets on the spot, a circumstance at that time unknown.

        Spheroidal Basalt with Basaltic Arnygdaloid, provincially toadstone, blackstone, dunstone, channel, &c., is not in beds, but is an undulating stratum of irregular thickness, composed of irregular shaped nodules of various sizes, of different colours and textures, totally void of petrifactions, and easily decomposing on exposure to the air; some being basalt, often in concentric laminæ, containing hornblende and olivin, others amygdaloid, having the vessels filled with carbonate of lime, calcedony, and jasper, of various colours, in concentric circles, which frequently interrupt each other, forming beautiful zoned agates; others containing quartz, compact and radiated; and others green earth, steatite, raystone or actynolitc, &c. This stratum is separated from the limestone by beds of blue clay, called wayboard, which abounds plentifully with sulphuret of iron, crystalized in cubes, and in balls composed of cubes in mass.

Crystalized Granular Limestone—This stratum forms the surface from Langwith, (where the Poulter river divides this county frorn Nottinghamshire) to Bolsover, where it bassets out, and is composed of seven various beds. On breaking a block in Bolsover field in the year 1795, of a ton and a-half weight, a toad was discovered alive in the centre, which died on being exposed to the air.  Pipe-clay used at the pipe mauufactories of Bolsover, separate many of these beds. Compact shell limestone, forming an undulating surface from Bakewell to Chelmerton Lowe, is composed of fourteen laminæ of different colours and textures, all of them abounding more or less with marine petrifactions. Compact sugar limestone forms the surface from Chelmerton to near Sherbrook. Compact sugar limestone consists of three laminæ, nearly of the same colour and texture, which are separated by irregular beds of very fine porcelain clay.

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The stratum of the compact shell limestone, which is composed of fourteen laminæ, is very much broken and dislocated, abounds with fissures, which are many of them filled with spars, &c. When they contain minerals, and are under four inches wide, they are termed scrins, and veins when thicker, which when perpendicular are called rake veins; and when the dislocation is very extensive, and one side of the vein sunk considerably below the other, they are termed faults. The minerals in these veins are formed alternately on their checks (or sides of the vein), and when there was not a sufficiency of matter to fill the vein, the last deposited substances crystalized; hence the formation of the beautiful crystals which adorn the cabinets of the curious, which, varying in their figure in different districts of the same stratum, and peculiar mines being unworked, occasions some crystals to be very scarce. Crystals of the same substance, sometimes vary in the figure in the same specimen, and frequently assume different figures in different parts of the same mine. Scrins often descend to what is termed pipe veins, when they are termed leaders, where the minerals are formed between the bedding of the rock in concentric laminæ, resemb­ling oblate spheroids; sometimes the minerals are formed in hemispheric cups, consisting of alternate layers, found detached in mineral soils, with their mouths upwards and reversed. The oblate spheroids are often conjoined, when the places of union ore called twitchings, and often stratified over each other, having their leaders passing through the centre of the whole, when they are termed feeders, which generally terminate below the pipes in small strings. When the minerals are formed in horizontal laminæ between the beds of the rock, they are termed flat-works.

These veins are productive of various ores of lead, as the sulphur of leafy camellar fracture, compact and spread over, which last is termed slickensides; the carbonate, phos­phate, muriate and brown. The ores of zinc, as the native oxide and sulphate, provincially, “Black Jack.” Also, ores of copper, iron, manganese, very rarely antimony. A variety of clays and ochres, &c.; accompanied with various earths of lime, as carbonate, fluate, and sulphate; varieties of sulphate of baryte, quartz, &e. Native sulphur is found com­pact, mixed with sulphur of lead, and in a friable state, within balls of sulphate of baryte, accompanied with crystalized sulphuret of iron.

LEAD MINES are of great antiquity in this county, and were much worked by the Romans, as appears by legends on pieces of lead taken out of the old mine hillocks, three of which were deposited some years ago in the British Museum. The first was found on Cromford Moor, in 1776, which was made in the reign of the Emperor Adrian; the second was found near Matlock Bank, in 1783, which appears to have been the property of Lucius Aruconius Verecundus, lead merchant, of London; and the third was found near Matlock, in 1787, belonging to Tiberius Claudius, of Chesterfield, Triumvir, “drawn from a silver-mine.” There are lead mines at Alport, Bakewell, Castleton, Crich, Eyam, Haddon, Hassop, Wren Park, Calver Sough, Matlock, Monyash, Winster, Wirksworth, &c. Of these we will just notice the Eyam Mining Company, which was formed about ten years ago, by a number of gentlemen principally residents in Sheffield, who are in possession of much that is of a prospective character—in fact, taking the current reports, as bequeathed to the present generation by the ancient miner, the more valuable portions of the Eyam possessions are those which have not yet been approached by either level or engine-shafts; and by saying this much we are by no means disposed to underrate the resources of the Dusty Pit—the principal mine at present developed on this sett, and which, by the bye, has been effected by a ten-horse engine—clearing the same of water, and draining the entire quantity of mineral to surface, a distance of fifty-two fathoms, as well as grinding the mineral and working the timber saw. The dusty pit has, within a few days, become increasingly rich, and is raising from two to three tons of first-class lead per day.

The Wren Park and Calver Sough Company will in future be denominated the North Derbyshire Mining Company.

IRONSTONE AND COAL STRATA.—Formed within concavities named troughs, sancums, &e., imbedded in clay, whose laminæ frequently abound with charcoal, carbonate of iron,

B

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sulphuret of iron, crystals of sulphate of lime, &c., lie at the bottom, and are more or less separated by clay; the bottom beds of ironstone are in nodules frequently containing vegetable impressions of ferns, galiums, nuts, and a variety of flowers, insects, &c., which are sometimes accompanied with particles of sulphur of lead. Above these beds are nodules, which contain impressions of larger plants, and incumbent are compact layers of nodules. Above these are compact beds, abounding with petrified muscle shells, incrusted with conic clay, composed of multifarious concentric ramified cones; and nearer the surface are oblate spheroids, containing septariæ of carbonate of iron, some of which septa, towards the centre of the nodule, are hollow, and lined with crystals of carbonate of iron, sulphuret of iron, sulphur of lead, sulphate of zinc, &c, Some of these beds have an inclination of about eight degrees to the east, others of about eighteen, and others a similar inclination to the west.

Rock Coal, abounding with nodules of sulphuret of iron, termed bases, bats, &c., used in making sulphate of iron (copperas). In this stratum, near Buxton, veins of sulphuret of lead are found in faults, having coal attached on both sides, accompanied with sulphuret of iron.

Aluminous Shale or Slate—Of a brownish black colour, earthy texture, which freely cleaving when exposed to the air, decomposes to clay; in which state it is used for making bricks; thin beds of grit and ironstone frequently occur in this stratum. It is also pro­ductive of alum, and cavities are frequently found herein, heretofore made by the miners, in sinking through for veins of lead ore in the limestone below; these cavities are lined with plumose vitroil of iron, and needle-like crystals of plumose alum; nodules of iron­stone, called shale binds, also occur stratified with admixtures. Miners consider this stratum to be a cover for veins of lead ores in the limestone beneath.

The most ancient method of working the lead mines, appear to have been by making fires upon the veins, to crack the cheeks, and to loosen the vein materials; after­wards gunpowder was introduced, and a hole bored into the rock several inches deep and gunpowder put at the bottom, upon it was placed a slug and clippit; afterward, the gun or jumper was invented; from both which methods, in the ramming, sparks ensued, which often injured the workmen. About the end of the 17th century, some miners were invited from Saxony, who introduced the skewer and fuse, the practice still in use.

When the lead ore is got from the mine, it is separated from its mixtures, termed “deads,” by knocking with different shaped iron hammers into three assort­ments, called Bing, Peasy, and Smytham; bing is the largest size, peasy is the size of pease, and smytham small grains; they are washed well, in which process, the very minute particles are carried away into reservoirs, and are afterwards collected by the name of bolland, and measured by the dish or standard measure, which was wrought in the reign of Henry VIII., and contains fourteen pints. It is placed in the Barmote Court at Wirksworth. This measure being liable to great imposition, by refuse being mixed with the ore, a dish has lately been introduced, by which the ore is sold by weight, at the same time that it is measured; it was introduced for the first time on the 10th of Sept., 1803, at Gregory Mine, near Ashover, and gives general satisfaction, both to the buyer and seller.

The most ancient method of obtaining lead or iron from the ores recorded in this county, appears to have been by fires made upon blocks of sandstone, termed boles, placed on the summits of high hills, exposed to the action of the westerly winds, as being most prevalent; and in many places are hills which go by the name of Bole Hill, from the above circumstance; as at Bakewell, Ashover, Norton, &c.; afterwards improved upon by the blast furnace; and in 1698, the cupola was introduced from Holywell, in North Wales, soon after which the blast furnace went out of use for smelting lead ore, the last of which was taken down at Rowsley, near Bakewell; but they are still used for obtaining lead from the cupola slag and called slag hearths. In 1777, an horizontal chimney was placed to the

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cupola in Middleton Dale, to collect the sublimated particles of sulphur; and an improve­ment in respect to the fire was made in the cupola at Stannage, near Ashover, in 1802.

MINERAL COURTS, CUSTOMS, &c.—The principal part of the county where lead ore is found in considerable quantity, is known by the name of the King’s field. Nearly the whole hundred of Wirksworth comes under this denomination. This does not appear always to have been the case, for in the time of the Saxons it belonged to the Abbey at Repton. But Mr. Pegge imagines that in the year 874, when this religious house was destroyed by the Danes, it was escheated to the crown; since it appears to have been in its possession when Domesday book was compiled. As to that part of the King’s field which is situated in the High Peak, it is supposed that ever since the Norman conquest, it has been the property of the crown, and in the same custody with the castle. All that part of the county which comes under the denomination of the King’s field, has been from time immemorial let upon lease. The present lessee of the mineral duties in the High Peak, is the Duke of Devonshire; and in the hundred of Wirksworth, Peter Arkwright, Esq. They have each a steward and barmasters in the different districts which they hold under the crown. The steward presides as judge in their great barmote courts, and with twenty-four jurymen, chosen every half-year, determine all disputes which arise respecting the working of the mines. For this purpose, they meet twice in the year, and if requisite, may, upon proper notice, be summoned still oftener. In the High Peak, the courts are held at Monyash, and in the hundred of Wirksworth, at that town. One great barmote court is also held annually at Ashford, for the liberty of Ashford, Tideswell, Peak Forest, and Hartington, of which the Duke of Devonshire is lord; and one great barmote court, annually, held alternately at Stoney Middleton and Eyam for that liberty, of which the Duke of Devonshire, the Marquis of Chandos, and Sir Richd. Tufton, Bart., are lords. And under the Wirksworth Mining Customs and Mineral Courts Act, passed in I 852, two great barmote courts are to be held in each year, for the soke and wapentake of Wirks­worth, viz.—one within a month after the 25th of March, and the other within a month after the 29th of September. Small barmote courts are also held when required for the trial of causes. The barmaster for the soke and wapentake of Wirksworth is Mr. John Alsop, who resides at Wensley, near Matlock, and there are also several deputy barmasters within the district. The Queen in right of her Duchy of Lancaster is seized of the manor and wapentake of Wirksworth, and of the lead mines within the King’s Field, and is entitled to the mineral duties within certain parts of the soke and wapentake of Wirksworth, of which James C. Newbold, Esq., of Matlock Bath, is steward. The office of barmaster consists of various branches; but the most material are, putting miners in possession of veins which they had discovered, and collecting that portion of the ore, to which the lessee of the crown or lord of the manor has a claim. When the miner has found a new vein of ore in the King’s field, provided it be not in an orchard, garden, or high-road, he may aquire an exclusive title to it by a proper application to the barmaster, of the liberty. The method of doing which is, in the presence of two jurymen, making out in a pipe or rake work two meares of ground, each containing twenty-nine yards, and in a flat work, fourteen yards square. In recompence for the tronble, the barmaster is entitled to the first dish of ore which is gotten. If a miner neglects, beyond a certain limited time, to avail himself of his discovery, the barmaster may then dispose of it to any person who may wish to try his fortune in it. The superintending the measurement of the ore, and taking that proportion to which the lessee or lord of the manor is entitled, is attended with some trouble and difficulty to the barmaster; for these claims are exceedingly different in various parts. Peasy and bolland were formerly considered exempt. In the year 1761, the Duke of Devonshire asserted and established the claim of the crown on them in the High peak; and the success of his Grace induced the other lessee, Mr. Rolles, a very short time after, to contest the point with the miners in his division; and for this purpose, he threw the cause into Chancery, and obtained a